Bazungu Na Nyakato

Posted by: Brianne | April 4, 2012

Safari & Zanzibar | Kathy & Kevin

From Kevin:

Hello again everyone. It’s Kevin back at the keyboard one last time for a synopsis of our Zanzibar r&r.

First off, for those that may not know, once we wrapped up our clinic work at Nyakato, we had a choice of either doing a safari or going to Zanzibar. Eight of our group chose safari while the other five opted for Zanzibar, me included, given I had already done a safari after the Kilimanjaro climb.

Things started off rather interestingly as our flight from Mwanza, near where we did our clinic work, to Dar es Salaam was supposed to leave at 1:30p. While we watched our plane come in around 1:00pm, at 1:30p we still found ourselves sitting in the airport terminal waiting to board with no reasons as to the delays. We finally got off the ground shortly after 2:00p which got us to Dar es Salaam late as well. Our flight schedule left us with only a very small window of time to catch our afternoon flight to Zanzibar. When we went to get our boarding passes after arriving at Dar, they indicated our Zanzibar flight time was now to be 6:00pm to Zanzibar, uh oh, did we miss our connection?! As we made our way to the gate we found the plane was still boarding but given our passes said 6:00pm, they didn’t let us on so we had to wait a couple of extra hours in Dar. Our bags however did make it on and were neatly stacked and waiting for us when we finally got to Zanzibar.

By the time we arrived and contacted our driver it was getting towards dusk with still about an hours worth of driving from the airport to our final destination in the northeast part of the island, Bluebay Beach Resort & Spa. Upon leaving the airport, the island’s Arabic history was immediately visible, as we drove past several mosques of varying sizes and unique Arab architecture. I was surprised by just how many people live there, estimated to be close to one million. Much like mainland Tanzania, there were people everywhere. . . going somewhere or doing something. Another similarity was the agriculture visible along the way, comprised mostly of plantations growing fruits and spices with rice patties scattered about in the very few areas that were mostly devoid of trees.

We arrived at the Resort, checked in and headed for our rooms before getting our evening dinner. The rooms were impressive and with air conditioning as well. Ahhhh… do I really have to leave my room to get dinner? Even at night it was quite warm and humid but with at least some relief coming from a moderate breeze off the ocean. The food was great. A candle light dinner was served outdoors with tables that lined one edge of the large kidney bean shaped pool while an entertainment stage was situated on the other. Music, dancers, and people that could bend, twist, and contort their bodies every which way provided the evening entertainment. Given our late arrival, there was only one other table with people still enjoying the night when we wrapped up dinner and headed for bed.

Thursday was our only full day on the island and we kept quite busy with a spice farm tour in the morning and a tour of Stone Town in the afternoon. As mentioned, our resort is on the northeast side of the island so I got up and was on the beach by 6:00am to catch a few sunrise pictures and then had a delicious breakfast. Then it was off to see a spice farm. Things seemed a little strange right from the start as our driver had to make a few cell calls and didn’t always seem quite sure where he was going. When he stopped the van to drop us off, we found ourselves on a narrow, rutted dirt road surrounded by trees with no structures anywhere that would suggest we were at a spice farm. But within a couple of minutes, our guide and two helpers appeared. Turns out we were indeed on a spice farm as our tour started with a tree only a few steps from where we had been dropped off. This is a demonstration farm used mainly for tourists but even the government plantations didn’t appear to be much different, only larger. The tour took us from tree to tree or plant to plant. We were quizzed at each stop to see if we knew what it was we were looking at. We always got to taste, touch, or even keep nearly everything they put in our hands. Along the way, when the helpers weren’t picking, cutting, or peeling fruit for us they were busy making us things from the leaves or reeds from the various plants. We were given a cone shaped basket, sunglasses, necklaces, ties, and rings all made from the leaves. These guys are quite good at what they do. When we got to the coconut palms, we then got to see how they climb to tree to grab the fruit. They make a rope from vines and plant fibers, twisting it for added strength, then make a figure eight with it using one hole for each foot and up they go… quite quickly too. Once we wrapped up on the “farm”, we were taken to tour an old structure built by a Sultan long ago for his wife followed by a stop at the spice farm’s spice stand where we nearly cleaned them out of their spices they were selling. Interesting trip for sure. I think we all learned a lot.

The afternoon featured a Stone Town tour. As we were driving through town amongst the thousands of people, our driver suddenly stopped and said our tour begins here and your guide is right there in the red shirt. Out of the van we went into a blazing hot street where our tour began. After a few steps, we found ourselves in the market. Like other Tanzanian markets, you can find just about any type of food you’d ever need here, spices, fruits, eggs, fish, meats, you name it, it was here. The market is made up of hundreds of individual vendors selling their goods. Nearly all are simple wooden stands packed tightly together with one bigger roof covering them all or small stands with their own individual roof covering to keep the intense sun at bay. We shot pictures everywhere, but when we got to the fish and meat market, our guide told me I could take pictures of the food but not of the people. Interestingly, the market I had visited in Moshi a few weeks earlier was nearly the same, I could take pictures throughout the market but was told not to take any pictures in the meat and fish market areas. Not sure why this is. Both the fish and meat markets had flies hovering everywhere. Walking through the fish market we found everything from octopus to shark and everything in between. We even saw a fish auction going on in a semi-separated room attached to the market. Upon leaving the market, we soon we found ourselves at a church that once housed some of the many slaves which came through these islands. There we were taken to a small room in the basement with a very low ceiling and two small holes cut in the foundation for air circulation and light. I thought it was cramped with the five of us and our guide in there but then he told us that as many as 50 slaves were kept here at the same time for up to three days while they awaited the slave auction going on above. Then it was a walk through the narrow streets of Stone Town lined with its many shops and electrical wires running everywhere sometimes so intertwined they would look not unlike a birds nest. We were hounded by store owners and beggars at nearly every step. These streets are quite unique and with architecture styles that point to both Arab and Indian influences, especially in the doors. We made our way to an ancient amphitheater and Fort structure, one of the first buildings built in Stone Town, dating back to the 17^th century. Today it is used for festivals only. We wrapped up our tour along the sea walk in Forodhani Gardens looking into the harbor where both brand new luxury yachts were anchored alongside rickety old wooden boats that appeared to use bed sheets for sails, some with clothes hanging on them. Every once in a while a dhow would sail through. Those were quite neat to see. Given the intense heat and humidity, we headed back to our Resort following the tour.

Once back, we headed straight to the ocean to cool off. The water must have been somewhere close to 100 degrees as it felt like bath water. The turquoise water, white sands, and blue sky made for quite a view when intermixed with the waving palms leaves and the thatch roof tops of our Resort. Dinner was buffet style and again we had great entertainment.

Our last day we had nothing scheduled other than we needed to be at the airport by 2:00pm so after breakfast, we planned spend the morning on the beach. I again went at sunrise to get more pictures and again wasn’t disappointed. Fiery orange light bouncing off the clouds and water, beautiful silhouettes of the Resort’s Maasai guards with the turquoise ocean water and a single dhow sailing in the background. Then it was another good breakfast and back to the beach. I was the first to arrive and got a quick reminder, as if I needed one, that even though we were on the white sand beaches of the tropical paradise of Zanzibar, it was still Africa, as I watched a single Maasai warrior drive a herd of about two dozen cattle down the white sands. Quite an interesting contrast I must say. School children also use the beaches but as a sidewalk to get to and from school. After spending the morning in the water that wasn’t quite as warm as the previous day, we did some quick shopping at a few of the thatch lined shops along the beach where Jeff and I both bought small, hand carved giraffe chairs before returning to our rooms to pack up to start the long journey home.

And with that, there you have it, the 2012 version of our Tanzania Global Partners journey is now complete. Thanks to those of you who read our blogs along the way and for all the nice comments you left us with. Jeff printed those out every morning for all of us to read. As I said in a previous blog, it was quite an amazing experience coming here. The people are incredible as is their culture. It is such a different world from what we in the West have it’s even difficult to make comparisons. I hope that someday all of you reading this will get the chance to visit this beautiful place as I have been so fortunate to be able to do over the past 33 days. I guarantee you won’t be disappointed and will come home a changed person. Lala Salama Tanzania, lala salama!!

Serengeti Safari—Kathy

When our time at Nyakato Health Centre was over, eight of us ventured onward to the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater. We were divided into three 4-wheel drive land rovers. The Brekke’s were in one, with driver, David. The honeymooners, Sue and Keith (happy one-year anniversary) were with Freddie. The glamorous Serengeti dames (Lori, Cheryl and me) were with our dashing driver, Adam (aka Cuba Gooding, Jr.).

It was a long drive to the Serengeti National Park and along the way, our vehicle with the Serengeti dames got a flat tire! Fortunately, each vehicle is equipped with two spare tires, so Adam got to work while the three of us found a little shade under an Acacia tree. Unfortunately, spare tires don’t help much if the jack doesn’t work – Adam was unable to raise the vehicle high enough to change tires. He called Freddie, who was at least 15 miles ahead of us, and he came to our rescue. Away we went, again…

We arrived at the gate of the Serengeti, the drivers registered us, and then we had another lengthy drive to our “tented” resort. All vehicles need to be off the park roads and at their destination by 7pm and we just made that deadline. Adam explained that rangers at the gate are in contact with all the lodges to insure that people arrive safely at their destination. If not, rangers go out looking for them so they are not roaming around the Serengeti at night.

Our “tented” camp was certainly unlike any tent I’ve ever been in! The camp consists of a large tented lobby/dining area/bar and then several smaller “tents” where we stayed. They really were tents – with canvas walls and ceilings however they had solid wood frames and foundations, electricity and plumbing – even ceiling fans! Since it was dark when we arrived we had to have security accompany us to our tents and then escort us back again to the dining room for our evening meal. There are no fences around the camp so animals are free to roam in the area. Our evening meal was absolutely fantastic! For the first time in my life I ate Blue Parrot fish, and it was some of the best fish I’ve ever had. (I hope I didn’t eat Nemo – I don’t think he was a Parrot fish.)

The next day we headed out to see the animals, and we were not disappointed. First we were greeted by hundreds of zebras, impalas, gazelles and wildebeasts. This was followed by Masai giraffes (tallest giraffes in the world) that were so close to our vehicles we could practically touch them. They certainly didn’t care that we were taking pictures as fast as our cameras could click – maybe they liked being the center of attention! The tsetse flies got us, but actually they were less of a problem than I thought they would be – but those bites still hurt! We also saw cape buffalo, many baboons, dikdiks, a few elephants, topis, wart hogs, and hippos.

After we exited the park and were driving along, it happened again – another flat tire!!! And of course, Adam’s jack still did not work. The good thing this time is that Adams’ vehicle was the first one of the trio and not the last, so we just stopped for a few minutes until David and Freddie caught up to us. Within the minutes, those guys had the tire changed and away we went.

We then stopped at a Masai village and were given a tour of their homes and school. The Masai are so fascinating – there are over 120 different tribes in Tanzania and the Masai are the most traditional. Their diet consists of animal blood and milk and meat – that’s it! No grains, fruits, vegetables, etc. Their lives are spent out on the plains with their goats, sheep and cows – and those are the only animals they eat. No wild game. Wives are bought for the price of a cow – a young, beautiful woman may even sell for 25 cows. The girls/women have no choice but to marry the man who buys them – and the husbands can have many wives, if they are wealthy enough to purchase them. Learning about the Masai tribe certainly made me greatful to have been born in the United States!

Our second night was at Serena Safari Lodge on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. What a great place to stay! Again we had a fantastic meal – I had Nile perch. The next morning started early as we headed down a steep, dirt road into the bottom of the crater. The zebras and wildebeasts were everywhere. As the day wore on, we were fortunate enough to see “the big five” – lions, one leopard sleeping in the crotch of a tree, four black rhinos, more elephants and lots of cape buffalo. The lions looked quite content and were resting quietly under a tree. We soon found out why – nearby were the remains of a wildebeast? zebra? The lions were done with it and now the vultures, jackals and hyenas were having a feast.

By early afternoon, we had to head up and out of the crater – via a very steep, rutted dirt road. For me who doesn’t like heights, it was a bit unnerving, but we were soon on our way to Arusha. Along the way we passed through many rural areas and villages. It was nice to see the markets and children on their way home from school. We also saw several Masai boys that were dressed in black and had their faces painted white. These young men had recently been circumcised and were now entering adulthood. They had to spend 90 days away from their village as part of this ritual. When they return to their village, there will be a big party and these “men” will now be free to buy a wife (if they have a cow to buy one!)

We made it to Arusha and went on to KIA Lodge near the airport where we had some “day rooms” so we could take a quick shower before heading to the airport for our flights home. In a wonderful farewell gesture from Tanzania, we were given a fantastic view of Mt. Kiliminjaro. The summit was clear and beautiful. I kept thinking “Kevin climbed to the top of that!?!?” Way to go, Kevin – that was quite an accomplishment. I’m proud to say that I know you!

In closing, I’d like to say the entire trip was fantastic and I enjoyed it all! Many thanks to all the members of our great team and to our great leaders – Jeff and Sally. Your work and dedication to this project is so very much appreciated…

[And pictures from Kevin's eye - click an image to open to the larger gallery view]